Dominica - In Depth
Not to be confused with the larger, similarly named Dominican Republic, the Spanish speaking island found north, in the Greater Antilles, the former British Commonwealth of Dominica is increasingly coming to be known for its “virgin” island character. In 1997, the island’s Morne Trois Pitons National Park, the first such park to be established in the Caribbean, was designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site. While the undeveloped and as yet uncommercialized character of Dominica currently demonstrates a agriculturally driven economy, it is also helping to shape the face of a new type of emerging world traveler’s market: the Ecotourism industry. |
|
Valley of Desolation
Dominica has come to be referred to as the “Hiking Capitol of the Caribbean Alps”, and there is absolutely no shortage of trails for experienced hikers who like to get their hearts and legs pumping; nor for those who love punishing trails, or are otherwise excited at the prospect of setting their lungs on fire. The trail winding through Sulphur Springs and the Valley of Desolation, is one such delight.
This is an honest-to-goodness, seriously demanding hike over some of the island’s most beautiful, but also uninviting terrain: steep and seemingly endless inclines; paths that disappear over rocks and then sink deep into the mud; rivers and streams that mysteriously get increasingly warmer, and less drinkable, the higher you climb.
|
|
|
Video: Boiling Lake, Valley of Desolation |
The highest vistas and panoramic views looking out from the mountainsides are vivid and breathtaking. But then, undeniably, so is the atmosphere amid the hot, gurgling streams and clouds of sulphur that spring out from the rainbow colored, lava-encrusted ground, here in the remote Valley of Desolation. back to top
Boiling Lake
Fortunately for most of those who undertake this trail, this is only a half-way stopping point. The trail picks up beyond and leads to perhaps the most renown of Dominica’s geological treasures: the bubbling, grey-silt cauldron known as Boiling Crater Lake.
Dominica’s Boiling Lake is the largest in the Western Hemisphere, and second to the only slightly more imaginatively named “Frying Pan Lake,” in New Zealand’s Waimanga Valley. It was discovered in 1870 by a pair of Englishmen on holiday, who were working on the island at the time. It was ultimately found to be at least 60 meters deep, and measuring 200 ft in diameter. It’s temperature, at least along the edges, has been recorded to range at a remarkably consistent 180 to 197 degrees Fahrenheit (82-91.5 Celsius).
The lake is fed by rainfall and two small streams that empty into it. It is kept perpetually simmering by an ceaseless stream of volcanic gases that rise from the bottom and escape through to its surface. The water then flows generously through an opening at its basin, onward to White River and Victoria Falls, and down via a series of streams back through the Valley of Desolation, before finally spilling out into the Atlantic Ocean.
The hike starts by the Titou Gorge which is a 30 minutes cab ride from Roseau and shouldn't cost you more than US $ 100.00 per car/van. There you will find the only signpost to the Boiling Lake. That's just another reason you shouldn't undertake this grueling 12 mile, 6-8 hour round trip hike without a tour guide. Bring enough snacks and fruits as there's no more opportunity to buy anything once you started hiking from Titou Gorge. Your guide will show you were to refill your water bottle and also point out the natural jacuzzis, you won't have to be afraid burning your skin from the bones. Since this hike is in the territory of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, you will have to pay a small entrance fee (around US $ 2.00) which is normally collected on your way back to town. back to top
 |
Waterfalls - Trafalgar Falls
When you imagine Dominica’s 365 rivers you might ask yourself, “where is all that water going?” Dominica claims some of the most spectacular waterfalls in the Caribbean. The most visited site, due to its accessibility, are the Trafalgar Falls also known as Twin Falls. The cab ride from Roseau takes only 20 minutes and from the visitors center to the observation platform it’s only a 10 – 15 minutes walk. The platform gives you a stunning view of both falls – the gigantic father fall to the left, and with a vertical drop of about 100 feet the smaller, but still huge mother fall (picture to the left). Although tour guides don’t want you to go past the platform (due to slippery stones and boulders) it’s still pretty safe to reach the pool of the mother fall. If you really want to climb the father fall, you should get a guide. Your reward will be a breathtaking view and probably a pleasant surprise when you jump into the pool.
Emerald Pools
A one-hour drive from downtown Roseau, leading through jungle vegetation and revealing spectacular mountain views, will take you to Emerald Pools. |
A short walk through the rainforest will take you to the pool, which is easily accessible. Caution is still recommended and every tour guide will confirm not to enter the pool more than twice, because every time you take a swim, it will take of 10 years of your age. back to top
Middleham Falls
If you’re looking for a serious walk through the rainforest, but you’re not quite ready to torture yourself all the way up to the Boiling Lake, the Middleham Falls might just be the right hike for you. Taking a 30 – 40 minutes car ride from Roseau, the trail starts already with a (small and easy) river crossing. Sorry no bridge, but we are sure that your tour guide will spot enough rocks in the water to bring you safe and dry to the other side. After a 45 minutes hike we wished we wouldn’t have gone ahead of our guide, since the track seemed to disappear somehow. Although we could already hear the roaring of the massive waters, it was really hard to spot the waterfall through all that lush rainforest vegetation. After a short, adventures detour we made our way back to the trail and we found out that if you use the tree roots, sticking out from the slope as a handrail, chances are you will not get off the trail. The fall is massive and with all that water pounding down a wall that’s probably higher than a 180 feet, you’ll get a constant spray over the pool that will create some spectacular rainbows, assuming you’re not experiencing part of Dominica’s annual 300 inches of rain. back to top |
 |
Victoria Falls
Filled with minerals, this waterfall is quite different than all the other falls on the island. Coming from the Boiling Lake, the water is murky and because of its minerals, it is said to be treasuring “healing power”. The only disadvantage: this is not a “drive up” waterfall. Although some people claim to hike the distance from the taxi drop off to the falls in 45 minutes, we strongly recommend to give yourself anywhere from 90 minutes to 2 hours, depending on your fitness. back to top |
|
|
| Carib Territory |
|
 |
An independent tour of Dominica might include a two hour drive to the Northwestern part of the island, for an encounter with the only descendants and last remaining settlement of the original Carib Indians, the native inhabitants of the islands for whom the Caribbean is named. Farming, canoe |
| building, and basketry remain the chief skills by which the population of 3000 survives today. back to top |
|
|
| White Sand Beach |
 |
Most of Dominica's beaches are covered with black vulcanic sand. If you continue going north from the Carib Territory, you will find Dominica's only white sand beach as well as hidden bays far away from fellow tourists or tour operators. back to top
...to be continued |
All Videos, Still Pictures, Layouts and Text © Big C Productions
Destinations | Contact | Charity | Our Team | About Us | Products
|
